Vertical Vision: Hardy Climbing Vines for  Northern Gardens

Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia)

Zone: 3–9
Light: Full sun to full shade
Growth Rate: Fast
Why It’s Great: Offers lush green coverage in summer and turns brilliant red in fall.
Support Needed: Walls, fences, trellises, arbors. It uses adhesive tendrils to climb on brick, stone, and wood. It does not need a trellis but may require guidance when young.

Hops (Humulus lupulus)

Zone: 3–8
Light: Full sun to partial shade
Growth Rate: Very fast
Why It’s Great: Lush green leaves provide dense coverage; produces hops for homebrewing.
Support Needed: Trellises, wires, arbors, fences. It uses twining stems to spiral around supports. It needs tall, strong vertical supports (10–15 feet) as it grows aggressively.

Climbing Honeysuckle (Lonicera spp.)

Zone: 3–9
Light: Full sun to partial shade
Growth Rate: Moderate
Why It’s Great: Produces fragrant, tubular flowers that attract hummingbirds.
Support Needed: Trellises, pergolas, arbors, fences. It twines around posts or wire mesh and needs training in early stages to encourage upward growth.

Arctic Kiwi (Actinidia kolomikta)

Zone: 3–6
Light: Full sun to partial shade
Growth Rate: Moderate
Why It’s Great: Features pink and white variegated foliage; some varieties produce small, edible kiwis.
Support Needed: Sturdy trellises, arbors, pergolas, fences. It uses twining stems and requires a strong, large support structure. Both a male and female plant are needed for fruit production.

Climbing Roses: Vertical Elegance with Prairie Toughness

Though not true climbers, climbing roses can add vertical drama and classic charm when trained along fences, arbors, or trellises. These roses don’t cling—they send out long canes that need to be tied to a support. With proper care and winter protection, many hardy varieties do well in Edmonton gardens.

Top Climbing Roses for Zone 3–4:

• ‘John Cabot’ – Rich pink blooms and vigorous growth. Blooms repeatedly.
• ‘William Baffin’ – Semi-double, hot-pink flowers on a robust, disease-resistant plant.
• ‘Henry Kelsey’ – Deep red, lightly fragrant blooms. Good rebloom and winter hardiness.
• ‘Quadra’ – Large velvety red double blooms. It needs strong support.
• ‘Polestar’ – Compact, creamy white flowers, perfect for small trellises.

Winter Tip: Mound mulch around the base, and consider burlap wrapping in exposed spots. Tie canes to protect from wind damage.

Clematis: The Queen of Climbers

Few vines are as beloved—and as misunderstood—as clematis. With their dramatic flowers, long bloom periods, and ability to grow in compact spaces, clematis are a stunning choice for vertical gardening.

Best Clematis for Zone 3–4 Gardens

• Clematis ‘Jackmanii’ – Large purple blooms, vigorous summer bloomer (Group 3)
• Clematis ‘Blue Bird’ – Early-blooming blue flowers, incredibly hardy (Group 1)
• Clematis ‘Rouge Cardinal’ – Velvety red flowers, great mid-to-late summer show (Group 3)
• Clematis ‘Pink Flamingo’ – Feathery spring flowers, hardy and elegant (Group 1)

Clematis Pruning Groups Explained

To get the most from your clematis, pruning is key.

Group 1: Early Spring Bloomers

Very winter-hardy—perfect for Edmonton. Examples: ‘Blue Bird’, ‘Pink Flamingo’

• Bloom Time: April–May
• Bloom on: Old wood
• Prune: After flowering
• How: Light shaping only. Don’t cut hard or you’ll lose next year’s blooms.
  

Group 2: Repeat Bloomers

These can be inconsistent in Zone 3 winters. Often treated like Group 3 in our climate. Examples: ‘Nelly Moser’, ‘Multi Blue’, ‘The President’

• Bloom Time: Late spring and again in late summer
• Bloom on: Old + new wood
• Prune: Early spring
• How: Light prune above healthy buds, 12–18″ from ground. Remove winter-kill.
  

Group 3: Summer/Fall Bloomers

This is the most reliable group for Edmonton’s freeze-thaw cycles. Examples: ‘Jackmanii’, ‘Rouge Cardinal’, ‘Ernest Markham’

• Bloom Time: July–September
• Bloom on: New wood
• Prune: Early spring (March–April)
• How: Cut all stems back to 12–18″ from the ground.
  

Clematis Pruning Quick Tips

• Use clean, sharp pruners.
• Wait until you see bud swell in spring to assess winter dieback.
• Shade the base (“feet”) with mulch or low-growing plants.
• Tie stems gently to trellises or mesh to help guide upward growth.
• When in doubt, prune as for Group 3—you’ll still get blooms!